Birnbaum & Bullock

Alternative Sizing

"The world is wonderfully full of beautiful women whose shapes and tastes offer an inexhaustible diversity," exclaimed Christian Dior 50 years ago, expressing an idea even more important today when women's sizes range from petite to full figure, curvy to thin, and everything in between. In Dior's time the goal in design may have been to conceal so-called flaws and enhance a woman's shape to conform to an ideal. In today's world (when the average woman wears a size 12) women are finally beginning to celebrate their diversity and adhere to their own standards of what is considered beautiful. Although standards are changing in people's minds, finding beautiful, high quality clothing that fits is still a problem for many women who's bodies don't conform to what is considered "normal" sizing.

Annemette
(Designers silhouette recommendation for all sizes)

In choosing bridal wear, in particular, many full figure women have been forced to settle for gowns off the plus size rack in the bargain basement of bridal shops and department stores. Likewise, petite women have had to make do with altered gowns that just don't fit their unique proportions; and women with physical challenges have had very little options but to settle for something less than what they deserve.

Birnbaum & Bullock's Uncompromising Bridal Wear offers a solution with Alternative Sizing. "A bride shouldn't have to compromise to feel special," says Steven Birnbaum who, along with design partner Robert Bullock, cut their gowns to measurement depending on the unique needs of the individual bride. Alternative Sizing gets rid of the "Plus Size" stigma (a term they'd like to see eliminated because it's demeaning) and opens the door to women whose shapes range from very petite, pregnant (to full term almost), as well as physically challenged brides.

Bullock adds, "A woman who's a size 0 is just as much an alternative size as a woman who's a size 24."

Their goal for the bride, according to Birnbaum, is all about "being who you are, and looking as beautiful as you can." Gone are the misconceptions that certain size women can't wear certain styles, that pregnancy has to be hidden. It all depends on the bride. "Most women can wear just about anything. It's not about camouflage. We're into honesty."

Whether it's fitting a bride with a size 40" bust and a 25" waist to cutting a gown for a wheelchair bound bride, the ultimate goal is to make her look her absolute best. It's also about making the process very comfortable for the bride, to relieve stress from the situation, and to give her the confidence that the gown will fit and she will look beautiful. "The worst thing a bride can do is not look like herself," says Bullock. And although it may be a challenge to fit women with special sizing needs, it's a challenge they welcome. "Challenges are good!" says Birnbaum.

From their experiences meeting with real brides, Birnbaum & Bullock have discovered that too often alternative size women (particularly full figure women) have been forced to settle for cheaply made and ill-fitting gowns, which just isn't fair. "There is an assumption that full figure women are less sophisticated (than average size women) and that's a fallacy. I feel for these women," says Birnbaum. Alternative sizing gives every bride the power to wear the fabric and the style she wants. The idea that any size woman can wear any style and fabric is a new one. The key being that if a gown is cut specifically to a woman's proportions, the options in terms of style become endless. "A lot of full figure women think they can't wear certain styles, like a tulle skirt for example. Tulle creates an illusion of floating, which can draw attention up to a beautiful bust line or face." Special accommodations are also made for women who plan to lose or gain weight for the big day, although Bullock recommends the bride achieve her weight goals by the first fitting (it can take up to five to get it just right). Every bride that teams up with Birnbaum & Bullock understands that she is not only going to look her best, but get a customized fit that will greatly reduce alterations, and that's a luxury. "Our gowns are cut to measurements, not sizes," they both stress.

Vogue magazine's April 2002 Shape Issue attempted to address the problem women face when their sizes don't conform to fashion models' (and in reality whose does!) The letters to the editor in response to the issue indicated that although women welcomed this long overdue recognition, the fashion industry still has a long way to go towards meeting their needs. Birnbaum & Bullock's Alternative Sizing is a major step towards giving all women the respect they deserve. Birnbaum says, "No one should have less options than anyone else." Every bride, no matter what her shape and size, deserves a quality, custom cut gown for her special day.

"The bottom line for every bride," says Bullock, "is to look her absolute best and enjoy the process!"


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